![]() I just have to give them optimal conditions, but not arbitrarily. I halve the lactic acid addition and am usually spot on, as far as water, i just use the water profile tool to make the water adjustments to the sparge volume i use (generally 20g) and sparge until i get my pre-boil volume. On the water volume tab/page, it says total water needed is 9.03 gallons. Other settings: Theres a box on the upper left below mash details that says 2 step batch sparge (drain mash tun,, 1.22 gall) at 168 deg. I believe in doing as little as possible to the ingredients and let them build the wort profile. It says add 15.79 quarts of water at 163.7 degrees. The important thing is that I had to do some homework to establish a baseline. After fly sparging at 170-172 F, and getting as low as 1.8 Plato (1.007) for final runnings, my mash pH seldom goes up more than 0.2 and has never exceeded 0.4. Not a lot, since the TDS is still about 400. But it does sit hot for hours before I get to use it, and that precipitates some carbonate. For example if you were targeting 1.056, but only hit 1.048 this would give us (1.056-1.048) x 1000 8 points. ![]() Before the end of the mash, I heat an appropriate amount of water in the second kettle, and after the mash move the grain bag to the second one for mashing out (or you might call it a batch sparge). I use 8-11 l in the first one for mashing (depending on amount of grain). My mashes settle in at a nice 5.3 to 5.4. If your gravity is too low, the calculation for the amount of dry extract to add is: Calculate the difference between your target and actual OG, then multiply by 1000. In my BIAB setup I have two 17 liter kettles. ![]() I get a pH of about 7.3 from this tiny treatment. The first is to use a standard mash profile and adjust the initial infusion to leave a couple of gallons out for the sparge. I treat 310 gallons with 75 to 100ml of Phosphoric to counter the RA, depending on the TDS reading. BeerSmith setting for BIAB mash designates to the software that all the water being added, less any top offs to the boil or fermenter, is used in the mash. Adding acid that has nothing to react with simply sours the beer.Ĭontrast that with my water which has a TDS of 470 and RA of about 140. There simply aren't enough protons for the water to contribute to the mash to move it much. RO water has a residual alkalinity of about 2. Just brewed an Imperial Stout - 10 gallon final batch volume with about 2 gallons too much sparge water. I think you'll find the RO water really doesn't shift the pH all that much.įirst, use a TDS meter on the RO source. My Beer Smith calculated sparge water volume is always way too high. That means taking careful measurements of gravity and pH throughout the sparge. It's the trendy johnny fix-all panacea to avoid the dreaded "tannins" homebrewers are currently paranoid about.ĭo it if you need to, but don't follow it blindly. : It overlooks and oversimplifies the buffering capability of a mash.
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